2. behind: Miu Miu, Jacquemus and Loewe
hot pants, giant bags on the streets of Paris, and pixelated clothing? the playful take on luxury's new look
I was scared no one would care about behind brands, but the reception for my first post was fun! So tysm and thank you for over 1k subscribers in just a week ♥
Without further ado…
Miu Miu
Last year, Miu Miu, "Prada's little sister," outpaced its sibling brand in growth. When you think Miu Miu, several popular trends come to mind: ballet flats, micro mini skirts, and it-bags, to say the least. The brand's recent streak of hit items shows no signs of slowing down.
Since its inception, Miu Miu has captivated the 'It girl' demographic. I always think back to 1996, when Chloë Sevigny opened its Spring/Summer show, embracing the 'ugly chic' trend with 70s-inspired pieces. Today, the Miu Miu aesthetic combines femininity with an edgy twist, continually appealing to fashion-forward audiences.
Miu Miu has a knack for pioneering and rejuvenating trends. The brand often sets the pace in the fashion industry, with other labels following their lead. For instance, during the AW23 runway shows, Miu Miu showcased models in sequin underwear, reigniting the ‘underwear-as-outerwear’ fad. This move was so influential that Lyst identified hotpants as a trend that defined 2023, and it inspired a wave of similar designs for SS2024 collections, where hotpants saw a 114% increase in popularity (Tagwalk).
Beyond the runway, both Prada and Miu Miu have been quick to seize opportunities in the evolving market. They were among the first to host events in China as soon as lockdowns lifted, showing their agility and understanding of the global fashion landscape. This adaptability and trendsetting ability have solidified Miu Miu's position as a leading and influential fashion house, distinct from its association with Prada.
Jacquemus
Simon Porte Jacquemus has undoubtedly made his mark in the high fashion market. Since launching Jacquemus in 2009, the brand has skyrocketed, doubling its revenues to a staggering €200 million by 2022. To Simon, image is everything, and with Jacquemus, that is exactly what he is trying to sell. The brand has a skill for using out-of-the-box runways, surreal ad campaigns, and smart social media moves to shake up what luxury means and grab people's attention. They're big on this surrealist marketing vibe, which works wonders in a market that's packed. It's all about giving people a bit of an escape, whether through surprise, delight or just getting people to talk. And not just in fashion circles, but everywhere.
One of the cool things I love about Jacquemus is their experiential marketing. It's the kind of stuff that people love to share on social media, so it gets a lot of buzz. They had this massive 500-meter pink runway in a lavender field in Provence. Then there was the all-white runway against the salt mounds in Camargue, France, and a stunning show at the Palace of Versailles. It’s "instagrammable,” and this is done strategically.
Their pop-up stores are another big hit. Places like Lake Como aren't just pretty; they're perfect for creating buzz and getting people to post about them. The brand's online and offline personas are in sync, keeping us hooked. Plus, by featuring top models like Kendall Jenner and Gigi Hadid, Jacquemus stays right on trend with the luxury fashion scene and the broader cultural zeitgeist. For business owners, Jacquemus is a masterclass in how unique marketing, compelling storytelling, and using influential figures can boost your brand.
Loewe
Founded in 1846, Loewe boasts a heritage that predates iconic brands like Prada, Balenciaga, Chanel, and even Louis Vuitton. Despite not having the same level of widespread recognition initially, Loewe has really taken off in the past few years. The brand's evolution, marked by a fresh design approach for its stores led by Peter Marino and the significant appointment of Jonathan Anderson of J.W. Anderson as creative director in 2013, has positioned Loewe on a fast track to global acclaim.
One important thing to note about Loewe is their branding. Particularly their logo, the Anagram, remodelled by M/M (Paris), which was logo of the year, landing on pixilated attire, embroidered denim, and staple tank tops. Worn by Rihanna, Hunter Schafer, Dua Lipa, and Kylie Jenner, the latter became the hottest product in Q2, experiencing a 132% search rise. The interlocked design is adored by luxury shoppers worldwide and complements the modern “quiet luxury” aesthetic.
“At a time when logos are becoming less desirable, Loewe is certainly bucking that trend,” stylist Bella Hignett explains, adding, “Its accessories are heavily branded, and people are clambering to be seen in the brand and to be associated with its luxury cool image.”
Similar to Simon Porte’s strategy, “Loewe's ‘pixelated clothing’, cartoon-style high heels and anthurium breastplates are visually impactful and social media friendly”, Philips explains, adding, “this helps elevate brand awareness and permeate the greater collective fashion consciousness. Loewe garments function as real-life meme-worthy content that's captivating audiences online and offline”.
In short, Loewe's mix of traditional heritage with contemporary, eye-catching designs is proving to be a successful formula. They've managed to stay true to their roots while adapting to current trends, capturing the attention of a new generation of luxury shoppers.
Weekly musings:
Sofia Richie Grainge Is Pregnant: After stunts from Kylie Jenner, Rihanna, Halle Bailey, and more, it’s getting easier to speculate celebrities and their secret baby bumps, so I can proudly admit I saw this one coming. Sofia tells Vogue, “It was crazy and overwhelming, and so hard not to scream it from the rooftops. But knowing I was so early, I was so protective—even with my friends. […] Pregnancy is really scary and you want to protect that space,” And it’s a girl—how cute!
Kim Kardashian Returns as Balenciaga Ambassador: Balenciaga has teamed up with Kim Kardashian again. They announced it in a statement on Monday. Looks like they're trying to bounce back after their disturbing campaign with children last year. And though Kim K was very vocal about the scandal, it appears it's all water under the bridge. This move has obviously sparked outrage because “no, we haven't forgotten what happened last year, Kim...”
the mob wife 💋🐆👠🚬 killed the clean girl 🩰🫧🎀: Goodbye, balletcore, neutral nails, and "no makeup" makeup. Hello, big fur coats, leopard print, and red nails. We’re seeing the surprising decline of a trend that dominated fashion, beauty, and social media in 2023, with this mature, brazen attitude taking over Tiktok. Even Francis Ford Coppola, the director of The Godfather, had something to say about this. Straight away, this tells me minimal/quiet luxury is no more. I’m wondering if it’s season-related. How will this aesthetic play out in the summer? Will the mob wife trend stick or be replaced with an alternative soon? Hypebae goes further, explaining how fashion borrows from culture and that most of these trends actually originate from women of colour—the real trendsetters.
Why Calvin Klein Ads Still Get People Talking: Calvin Klein ads can teach us quite a bit about risqué marketing. Their latest ads with Jeremy Allen White and FKA Twigs have everyone talking again. The timing was spot on—Jeremy Allen White's just won a Golden Globe and has his big Hollywood movie debut, so all eyes are on him. Then there's the whole thing with one of FKA Twigs' images getting banned in the UK (plus the conversation about double standards). Matt Kissane, from the marketing agency Landor, made a good point about brands needing to make moments in this TikTok era. You can't just play it safe all the time. It's clever marketing, really—a bit of provocation, and everyone's talking about your brand (easier said than done ofc).
What’s behind the growing appetite for edible beauty? People are really into the idea of fixing their skin and hair problems from the inside out. It's a big deal, showing how we're all looking at beauty differently now. Stella McCartney is the latest to launch these supplements, but so many beauty brands are responding to the demand for ingestible solutions to beauty. Take Hailey Bieber's Erewhon Smoothie, Lemme by Kourtney Kardashian, and Moon Juice. The list is endless. It's a fresh way to approach beauty, and brands that jump in now could really make a mark.
Not our first rodeo: The western aesthetic is back for FW24: The cowboy western aesthetic was trending last year at a similar time to now, although it was more ‘cowboy coastal girl’ with Tiktok going crazy for outfits perfect for both the barn and beach. Now it seems to be back, with searches for things like cowboy hats and boots rising significantly. I take it we’ll be seeing more of this, particularly in men’s fashion.