5. behind: Marine Serre, Alaia and Maison Margiela
it's that time of year again, fashion week musings + more
It's that time of year again. Fashion month is rolling back around, sparking memories of last year's most unforgettable moments: Julia Fox wore a wedding gown, lacy pastel thongs wrapped around necks (?), models wrestled in mud (??), Julia Fox (again!) wore a silver chain thong, Sami Miró distressed jeans live on the runway, the freeing of the nips, everyone wore undies to Miu Miu (??? but understandable seeing as 2023 was the year fashion lost its pants), live Butterflies fluttered inside dresses, Burberry’s takeover of Bond Street, House of Sunny's dream-like Airbnb, amongst others.
This year, I’m buzzing with anticipation for the fashion revelations set to unfold across the runways in London, Paris, and beyond. Particularly, I’ve got my eye on these three brands, being they’ve done something or the other to start the year with relevancy (i.e. Alaïa’s selfie lookbooks)
BTW, by the time you read this on Sunday, NYFW would have already been in full swing; read to the end for my musings on that…
Luxury today isn't just about high prices and exclusivity. We're now in the "New Luxury" era, where the value of luxury fashion comes from its story and the craftsmanship behind it, not just its price tag.
Now, luxury brands are about offering more than just products; they're providing experiences. They create items that have their own stories, carry deep meaning, and reflect the diversity of cultures. This shift in luxury represents a significant change, highlighting the importance of engagement and connection over simple ownership.
After honing her craft under Demna Gvasalia's watchful eye, Marine Serre launched her eponymous label, quickly amassing a cult following for her unique blend of couture and sportswear.
In 2020, Marine Serre’s moon prints were everywhere; all over Beyoncé, on stage with Lorde, on the front row with Rosalía, on Dua Lipa’s album shoot, and in Instagram posts with Kylie Jenner and Stormi. Marine Serre's influence—of course, much less popular in today’s fashion landscape, as seen by shifting sands of fashion trends toward a logoless luxury epitomised by figures like Sofia Richie Grainge—remains indelible.
While I might not deck myself out in Marine Serre from head to toe, I do like something about the brand. It has a very offbeat feel to it. It's 2024, and following the traditional playbook in fashion is akin to playing it safe—too safe. Marine Serre teaches us that sometimes you need to stray from the path, shake up the norms, and maybe, just maybe, turn heads in the process. Though, it can be a fine line between hit and miss.
The brand's SS24 collection just dropped, and to celebrate, Winnie Harlow and rising star Alassane Diong were roped in for a campaign that's as grounded as it is glamorous.
High fashion amidst the backdrop of local supermarkets, showcasing monogram denim, upcycled dresses, and accessories that whisper luxury in the most relatable of settings.
The campaign projects a vibe of "accessible luxury," which I find completely aligns with the reliability this generation seeks and also the move towards "anti-fashion.”. There is a narrative here that speaks of the unexpected elegance found in the commonplace and a celebration of the beauty in daily life.
Think about designer fashion brands and campaigns “pre-internet” (or “pre-social media” at least); there was a sort of classic elegance in the air. The '90s runway shows were as much about fantasy as they are now, in the 2010s and 20s, but in a way that felt more aspirational and ethereal back then than the more hearty, “wtf is this?” surrealism vibe we’ve got going on now.
A friend of mine remembers being a teen in the 90s, flicking through magazines, admiring models that felt so far away, and dreaming of realities that she didn’t feel could ever be real.
For me, it’s a bit different. I’ll remember scrolling through social media, looking at models and influencers and finding at least one who looked just like me, or sharing posts that went viral one day and became forgotten the next. So in a world constantly chasing the next viral moment, Marine Serre's commitment to an offbeat luxury that celebrates the beauty of everyday life feels refreshingly genuine.
Stepping into the storied shoes of Azzedine Alaïa, the legendary 'king of cling', was never going to be an easy feat. After his passing in 2017, the fashion world held its breath, wondering who could carry forward the legacy of such an iconic brand. Enter Pieter Mulier, with his impressive resume from Raf Simons to Calvin Klein, taking the helm in 2021 and steering Alaïa into a new era of fashion relevancy.
Alaïa's allure spans decades, dressing icons from Greta Garbo to Grace Jones and becoming a muse to the likes of Naomi Campbell in the '90s. Alaïa has always been synonymous with femininity, but not without its unique edge: a blend of the rough with the elegant, the classic with the cutting-edge. Under Mulier's direction, the brand's archive becomes a treasure trove of inspiration, reimagined for the contemporary woman.
Their WS24 collection is everything and had me at first glance. From cowhide skirts to high-heeled fur booties that wouldn't look out of place in a chic rendition of "The Flintstones," every piece was a testament to the enduring power of Alaïa's vision.
Plus, can we talk about that futuristic and—for lack of a more fashion-y term—3D-looking white dress? It’s honestly my favourite look in the whole collection, second to look 47 here, and naturally, Zendaya got the first wear.
Mentioning Martin Margiela instantly brings to mind iconic tabi boots, blank labels with four white stitches, and more recently, Miley Cyrus. From the outset of his career, Margiela chose to remain out of the spotlight, shunning interviews and steering clear of media attention.
The thing I love about Margiela is that it doesn’t just feel like a brand; there’s an undeniable vibe to it, where the norm is to expect the unexpected. I’m always waiting to see what unconventional (yet artistic) stunt the brand pulls next. Founded by Martin Margiela, a designer who looked at fashion and said, "Let's flip this on its head," this house has always been about shaking the table. And boy, does it shake.
Galliano, taking the reins in 2014, has propelled Maison Margiela into new territories, merging the brand's foundational ethos (an intriguing enigma) with his flair for dramatic storytelling and intricate tailoring. The SS24 collection, showcased under the historic arches of Paris's Pont Alexandre III, reflected a careful exploration of form and function. Themed around a 1920s dive bar setting, the presentation was as much about the ambience as the fashion.
Galliano does a great job at weaving narratives, asking questions like, "Does this woman live by gaslight or candlelight?" Because yes, that matters. It's about the mood, the hue of the red dress under that flickering light, and how it all plays into the story he's telling. His shows are less about the catwalk and more about the journey they take us on, inviting us into a world where fashion is the language spoken.
The details—lace that's been decoupaged, fabrics treated to appear soaked or stained, 'porcelain' neckpieces crafted from polished leather—are not just elements of design; they're characters in their own right, each adding a layer to the narrative Galliano is spinning.
This show wasn't just about showcasing clothes; it was Galliano reminding us that in the hands of a true visionary, fashion isn't just about what we wear—it's about the stories we tell, the dreams we dare to dream, and the fantastical journeys we embark upon every time we dress for the day.
Weekly musings:
Hailey Bieber Teased New Rhode Lip Gloss Holder Phone Case: Bieber is genius for this. Lipglosses are having such a big moment, I could go as far as to say they have a cultural impact. People collect them, have them out on the dinner table; they’re a big part of fashion and beauty trends—what’s sexy and cool or what’s not. However, as big of a fan as I am of Rhode and their lip treatments, I will not be seen with one of these. It’s cute as much as it is genius, but it sort of reminds me of those ugly, bulky rubber cases that were trendy back when I was in school.
‘Enshittification’ is coming for absolutely everything: "Enshittification" is a vivid and rather informal way to describe a trend observed in many online platforms and tech companies, where they start off offering high-quality, user-focused services but gradually degrade over time. We see it all the time these days, where platforms shift their priorities from serving the user to maximising profits, often at the expense of user experience and ethical standards. Here's a breakdown to simplify the concept:
The Instagram era of influencer brands is over. What now? Gone are the days when an influencer's glossy Instagram feed was all it took to win over consumers. TikTok has reshaped how we engage, favouring genuine moments over manicured feeds. With the spotlight on 'de-influencing' and the raw authenticity of 'corecore', the game has shifted. Consumers are sharper, craving realness over the perfectly curated. Enter the era of meaningful collaborations. The message is clear: consumer preferences now lean towards the authentic.
Demna, Alessandro & Other Fashion Week Infatuations: There was lots of talk swirling around in the fashion world before New York Fashion Week kicked off. Big business moves: Tapestry and Capri join forces; how will this shake things up for brands like Coach and Versace? Drama with designers: Demna Gvasalia and Alessandro Michele. The importance of finding the right creative leaders for brands like Gucci and Givenchy. It's fascinating to see how these big moves and rumours can shape the future of fashion. Interested to see how it all plays out!
Estée in Distress: Estée Lauder’s sales have been dropping for a while now. The multinational cosmetics company has been slow to adapt to how people buy beauty products these days, like online and at places like Sephora and Ulta. L'Oréal and Coty are simply doing better at this. There's also talk about how the company hasn't been very good at talking to younger customers or using social media like TikTok. On top of that, there are problems inside the company, like how they spend too much money on fancy corporate stuff that doesn't actually matter. Still, there's hope for Estée Lauder if they learn from companies like Deciem, which is doing pretty well with young people because it sells affordable products that are still of good quality. It's interesting to see how even big companies like Estée Lauder can struggle when they don't keep up with the times. It shows how important it is for businesses to pay attention to what their customers want and how they shop, especially in industries like beauty where things change fast. Hopefully, Estée Lauder can turn things around and stay relevant in the beauty world!
British Vogue Assembled Models, Movie Stars, Musicians And Moguls For A Once-In-A-Lifetime Farewell Shoot: “To get one of these women on a cover takes months,” whistled Miley, in that deadpan way of hers. “To get 40? Unheard of.”
You’re here for NYFW, as I promised. Okay, here you go:
On Day 4, New York Fashion Week Street Style Was All About Leather Jackets
‘Dressing up is back’: Tommy Hilfiger lauds luxury at New York Fashion Week
NYFW Street Style Is All About Varsity Jackets, Knits And Western Chic
My favourite looks, front row, RTW, runway, and so on:
Becky G, Kelly Rutherford, and Sofia Richie Grainge at the Tommy Hilfiger AW24 show. An unlikely trio in one photo I didn’t expect to fall in love with!
Carolina Herrera
Damson Idris at the Tommy Hilfiger AW24 show. (TY Tommy Hilfiger for coming back and making this possible 😍)
Speaking of Damson Idris… Here’s Lori Harvey at the Marc Jacobs SS24 show.
A jacket I’d actually want to add to cart. Helmut Lang.
Sofia Richie Grainge at the Khaite AW24 show.
I’m dying to get a chance to wear a hat like this. Photographed by Pierguido Grassano.
Finally, Tory Burch.
Fashion week isn’t only for the fashion nerds; so for everyone else (I’m talking beauty buff, celebrity culture, etc.):
Final thoughts: The fashion industry, as depicted through recent events at NYFW, is at a crossroads. At the heart of it all are heritage brands and their efforts to reinvent themselves while staying true to their origins:
There was talk about Zac Posen working with Gap Inc., but really, the focus was on how hard it is to make an old brand cool again. Even with new ideas, it's tough to change a brand's image once it's set in people's minds.
Tommy Hilfiger hosted a show that was meant to make up for a previous disaster. While the setting was nice and the effort was there, the clothes didn't bring anything new to the table.)
While grappling with its identity and striving for relevance, there's a clear craving for authenticity and innovation. Yet, the path forward seems muddled by an allegiance to past successes and a lack of creative courage, raising questions about the future of fashion branding and the ability to truly reinvent in a meaningful way.
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